Food Review 2024 – Tapori Soi Sukhumvit 47, Bangkok

From Mumbai’s streets to the Himalayas, Tapori on Sukhumvit 47 offers a menu that goes beyond clichéd Indian cuisine, showcasing the rich tapestry of the Incredible India’s gastronomic heritage

Tapori, down the quiet soi Sukhumvit 47, promises to take diners on an exciting journey around India with a menu that showcases flavours from across its length and breadth.

Tapori, Hindi slang for ‘wanderer’ or loveable, street-smart rascal, reflects the journeys of the chef patron, who compiles authentic dishes from across India that are largely undiscovered by Indian and global palates.

India’s vast landscape is incredibly diversitfied; with 28 states and eight union territories, each region with its own unique culture, language and culinary traditions.

Food in India is incredibly diverse and regionally specific and is shaped by a history of invasions, trade connections, religion and also cultural practices of its inhabitants.

Most of the Indian restaurants all around the world usually serve a clichéd representation of the multi-hued gastronomic heritage of the country.

However, you need to expect the unexpected at Tapori!!!!

Tapori’s menu, a mosaic of India’s diverse culinary landscape, is the culmination of extensive travels and research inviting diners to explore the lesser-known treasures of India.

Handpicked from every region or community, these traditional recipes tell a story on your plate, each a vibrant expression of the country’s complex flavours and spices.

*tawa-masala kaleji ice cream – this unconventional dish inspired by delhi weddings is a spiced chicken liver ice cream served on a bed of crispy dosa crumble*

The menu at Tapori has been thoughtfully divided into small and large plates, and designed for communal eating.

You can order in any combination, and create your own unique experience, much like a family dinner table.

*siddu – a himachal breakfast staple of lentil stuffed steamed buns served with zesty chilli-sesame (til ki chutney) and nutty flaxseed (teesi ki chutney) dips – also available in chicken*

You will NOT find typical fare like dal makhani, butter chicken or idli-sambar here; Tapori is designed for adventurers looking to discover an unseen India.

*kanava masala – spicy andhra-style squid, paired with a tangy ginger and lentil relish (allam chutney), served with a shot of creamy buttermilk (chaach)*

The small plates offer dishes such as Kala Chana Ghugni or flattened rice and black chickpeas from Bihar, Siddu (stuffed dumplings) from Himachal Pradesh, Andhra-style squid, scallop ceviche from Goa, Tabak Maas (lamb chops) from Kashmir and Kheema Ghotala (ground beef in spices) from Mumbai.

*natukozhi pulusu – rustic, spicy chicken with freshly ground spices & coconut gravy paired with a steamed finger millet porridge*

For the larger plates, taste regional favourites like Natukozhi Pulusu, a rustic chicken dish from Telangana, the tangy Masur Tenga (fish curry) of Assam, the famous Kerala Beef Chilli Fry and Lobster Assad from Pondicherry

*mochar chop – potato and banana blossom croquettes served with mint chutney*

Tapori doesn’t do ‘lazy’ vegetarian either, with protein swapped out for vegetarian alternatives. Instead, it features traditional vegetarian dishes like the Gujarati mixed root vegetable dish, Undhiyu served with fenugreek and millet flatbread, potato and banana blossom Mochar Chop from West Bengal, Gobhi Musallam (grilled cauliflower) from Uttar Pradesh, and the hearty Rajasthani lentil and millet porridge, Bajra Khichda. And this are just some of the great culinary journey you can design for yourself.

*bajra khichda – rajasthani lentil & millet porridge, infused with onions, garlic & yoghurt served with ghee & spiced papad crumbs*

Desserts become an alchemist’s playground for Tapori’s pastry chef, such as the benami kheer , a legendary dessert from the royal kitchens of Awadh… it is definitely difficult to guess the secret ingredient to this lost recipe or ‘pudding with no name’ …. It is a true taste of history and I am pretty mind blown to know the secret ingredient!!!!

Yet another example is Lonavala Chocolate Fudge, a trip down memory lane to the hill station of Lonavala, famous for its chikki (peanut brittle) and chocolate fudge.

At Tapori, it takes the shape of a delightful tart filled with old-fashioned chocolate almond fudge and a side of house-made vanilla ice cream.

Heading this intriguing narrative is culinary storyteller and chef-owner Rohit Sharma.

With a background in hospitality, he has set up over 100 food and beverage projects through his consultancy R4 Hospitality. These include the popular Maroon Room and Freemasons Brew Works in Guwahati (Assam), and his own Joint Café in Gurgaon (Delhi NCR).

Rohit conceptualises restaurants end-to-end, overseeing not just the initial concept but also the design and curation of the decor, and of course, the creation of the menus.

Tapori, is his food dream come to life, a meticulously crafted concept reflecting his deep passion and knowledge of Indian cuisine, embodying a love for tradition and innovation. To develop this concept, research involved traversing India for traditional recipes to create a menu that captures the travels of ‘tapori’ across the country.

This fact-finding mission led him to collect a database of 300 dishes, with only 29 making it to the first iteration of the menu.

Tapori’s commitment to showcasing India’s diversity and vibrancy extends beyond just food and into its decor. The interiors here are instagrammable beautifully blending modern elements with traditional Indian accents for an elegant and warm ambiance that feels both intimate and sophisticated.

Enter Tapori through the 200-year-old wooden door carefully imported all the way from Rajasthan leading you to the sprawling bungalow decorated a collection of artwork that draws from the country’s vast cultural traditions. The bold, black and white floor sets a striking foundation, harmonising with the warm tones of woven leather chairs and marble-esque tables that glow invitingly from within. Standing tall are cinnabar columns evoking Indian spices, while a parade of colourful Indian elephants punctuates the aesthetic.

From the geometric patterns of Warli art and the tribal motifs of Bastar to the detailed narratives of Madhubani and the vibrancy of Pichwai art, each storied art form celebrates India’s unique visual language.

A towering hand-cut mirror mosaic of a magnificent preening peacock and a 32-foot long oil on canvas of the backwaters of Kerala animate the space, bridging the gap between contemporary design and traditional artistry.

The outside terrace offers a tranquil dining with a seamless blend of nature with the colourful mural that capture the essence of India…

Come visit Tapori for their seriously gorgeous space and indulge in an unforgettable culinary journey across India (minus the huge price tag of having to travel all over India yourself) it’s just 10 mins of walking distance from EmQuartier / Phrom Phong BTS

*idukki gold – traditional milk pudding (payasam), from kerala*

*kheema ghotala – spicy minced lamb or beef paired with the classic ladi pav – the city’s signature bread (choice of lamb/beef)*

My personal favourites are the kheema ghotala , mochar chop and natukozhi pulusu… and you really cannot miss a sweet ending with benami kheer and/ or idukki gold